Day: October 21, 2021

This beloved Northern California restaurant has a controversial name. Does it matter?

When I first saw its name, I laughed. In California, in the year 2021, when colleges are being renamed, statues righteously taken down and Disneyland reimagined in the furtherance of anti-racism and inclusion, could there really be a beloved Bay Area institution called “Al the Wop’s”?

Staring at it on an online map of the Sacramento River Delta, I zoomed in on Locke, Calif., population “between 70 and 80 people.” Something about its location — on the dry side of a levee, amid a tangle of root-like tributaries, surrounded by towns I’d somehow never heard of — seemed mysterious. I … Read More