Restaurant review: China Bistro near Ocean Springs MS

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The beef lo mein at China Bistro in St. Martin.

Special to the Sun Herald

The China Bistro in Ocean Springs is just the kind of locally owned and managed business that we all should patronize.

It is a family business that’s been around for more than ten years and has a strong following of customers that speak very highly of the food and service. The food is good enough that some customers come twice a week, and everyone comments on the freshness and taste of the food.

The menu is a classic combination of regional Chinese dishes and famous Chinese-American favorites. Some folks look down on Chinese American foods as not being authentic, but what innovative Chinese cooks developed over the years is nothing more than an adaptation to American tastes, and to dismiss them is just silly. Who looks down on spaghetti and meatballs, the classic Italian American dish that is so popular all over the U.S.?

General Tso’s chicken, crab rangoon, beef and broccoli, and pepper steak are wounder innovations, even if you cannot find them in China, and are best sellers in the U.S. There are seven starters, and as always, I could easily make a meal out of three or four of them. What’s better than a crispy egg roll and a nice dipping sauce? I’d also go for the dumplings, and just for fun, I’d have to try the Bistro Wings.

The next category on the menu is lo mein, another one of my favorites. Lo mein is a stir-fried egg noodle, and it can be had with all the normal accompaniments — vegetable, beef, chicken, shrimp pork or a combination. There is just something irresistible about a stir-fried noodle. Add an order of seamed dumplings to a steaming bowl of lo mein and you have a feast.

There is also a handful of fried rice dishes, sweet and sour proteins and a few soups. But don’t forget to save room for the entrees, and there are twenty-four to choose from. My favorites include:

  • Szechuan chicken, with a delightfully spicy sauce and veggies,
  • Cashew chicken, with a house-made brown sauce
  • Beef pepper steak with onions and bell peppers

There are also five seafood selections, and I would go with the Happy Family. It’s made with shrimp, chicken, and beef with vegetables in their famous brown sauce. The menu ends with a few vegetarian dishes, and if you are leaning that way, go with the tofu.

The menu at China Bistro is perfect for family style dining. There is more camaraderie eating this way, and you get to sample dishes you otherwise might not get to try.

Check out the China Bistro soon, and remember, at least for now, it is takeout only.

If you go to China Bistro

Address: 6616 Washington Ave., Ocean Springs

Hours: Tuesday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., to-go only

Phone number: (228) 875-5913

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The beef lo mein at China Bistro in St. Martin. Julian Brunt Special to the Sun Herald

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The steamed dumplings at China Bistro in St. Martin Julian Brunt Special to the Sun Herald

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Justin Mitchell is the Sun Herald senior news editor and works on McClatchy’s audience engagement and development team. He also reports on LGBTQ issues in the Deep South, particularly focusing on Mississippi.