Ying Jing Ma, whose singular cooking in an erstwhile Taco Bell in Overland won him devoted customers and critical acclaim, died Aug. 4.
Mr. Schoenfeld became obsessed with Chinese food early on.
“I must have been 11 or 12 when I first went to the Great Shanghai on Broadway and 102nd Street,” he told the website Serious Eats in 2018. “I remember having my first spring roll! Not an egg roll — this was thinner and more delicate.”
In his teens he ate weekly at Shun Lee Dynasty, which had opened in 1965, and embarked on a strenuous program of self-education. He studied with Grace Chu, whose cooking classes and cookbooks introduced generations of New Yorkers to the subtleties of Chinese cuisine, and