Chili

Eric Huang Perfects Chili Fried Chicken Sandwich at Pecking House

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Photos courtesy of Justin Kirkland

“Michelin stars are stupid,” Eric Huang tells me as he takes a sip of coffee out of a plastic Tupperware container. At that exact moment, somewhere in nearby Manhattan, a crystal vase implodes. A beautiful white chef’s jacket is sullied by an overturned glass of cabernet. A woman, probably named Margaret or Evelyn, gasps into an embroidered napkin. Chef Eric Huang, former sous chef at Eleven Madison Park, has no right—no right, I tell you!—to shrug off a classist, somewhat antiquated, mostly white-faced system like fine dining. By God, this is decadence he spits

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